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Garbage Disposal

October 4, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Plumbing • Tags: Disposal, Garbage, Plumbing • 0 Comments

Garbage Disposal

Your garbage disposal is designed to grind food waste. Only put down the disposal what it is designed to have. Remember most of the sewage can end up in water sheds or your septic tank and leach field so be kind to the environment. Please, do yourself a favor and read your owners manual or download one for your make and model! It will be your best friend should you garbage disposal r disposal stop working or get plugged or jammed.

The disposal has an electrical connection so unplug it or turn off the breaker in the service panel before starting any work on this appliance.

Two things I learned the hard way not to put down the disposal…cabbage for one. And the other is grease from cooking. The cabbage will just shred and it will plug your drain. The grease will line your drain pipes and cause food and debris to stick and cause a plug over time.

The most common problem is a jam inside the disposal from a hard piece of debris like glass or a seed. The object gets stuck between the interior wall and the grinder. If this happens, it may trip the reset button on the disposer. Use a flashlight and look down inside the disposal to see if you can visualize what has jammed the unit. If you can see it you may be able to reach inside with a pair of tongs and remove it. Word of caution, be sure the power is off or disconnected before reaching inside.

Hopefully your disposal came with a wrench to help free the jamb. If it does have a wrench, there will be a hole in the bottom of the disposer to insert the wrench. Insert it and work it back and forth to see if you can free the grinder. Once it makes a full revolution, look inside to see if you can remove the object. If you do not see anything, it is possible you may have forced the object on through and into the drain.

Replacement

If the above procedures do not fix your disposer, the motor may be defective and the unit will need replaced. Replacing with the same make and model can be fairly easy. If a different model, you may need to replace the sink drain basket. The good news is that the disposers come with excellent instructions. If you are one that can read and follow instructions you can do this yourself. The most challenging procedure for people can be the electrical connections. Even that is detailed in most instruction manuals.

Garage Door Maintenance

June 1, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Home Maintenance • Tags: Annual, Door, Garage • 0 Comments

Most of our homes have an overhead garage door. Yours may be one large door or one or two smaller doors. Regardless of size, the maintenance is the same. Attached to most of the doors is an electric opener to open and close the doors with a press of a button. The maintenance for the opener will be discussed in the last section of this article.

Lubricate the track and rollers and tighten all bolts and nuts.

The door(s) may be wood, metal, or composite. Most overhead doors are in several horizontal panels, connected by brackets with hinges. The door is usually opened by assistance from from two high tension springs mounted above the door. Due to the tension in these springs, only experienced technicians should adjust or replace them. The springs can break with age. If one does break, replace both so you have equal tension. Have the springs replaced by an experienced door technician.

Other than the springs, there are several maintenance procedures you can do. You should perform monthly safety checks of the door and opener. Annually, check and perform the following.

Lubricate the tracks and rollers on the sides of the door with a spray silicone or teflon. Do not use an oil based product as it will collect dust. Do not lubricate nylon rollers.
Tighten all the nuts and bolts. This includes those on the door and those that secure the door roller tracks to the wall.
If you have a door opener, release the emergency cord and check the door balance that it moves easily up and down. When the spring tension is properly adjusted, you should be able to move the door easily up and down with one hand. If the spring tension needs adjusted, contact a qualified door technician.
Some door manufacturers recommend white lithium grease as a lubricant (see below from Chamberlain). I do not recommend that as it can collect dust/dirt.
Emergency Release Cable

Door Openers

Every electric opener system is different. If you need help programming your remote, search for the manufacturer’s manual on the Internet and follow those instructions.

Annual opener maintenance consists of the following:

Check the downward travel pressure for the force limit. Place a small block (2 x 4) on the floor below the door threshold. Press the button to close the door. If properly adjusted, when the door contacts the block it should automatically reverse and open. If it does not, the force limit requires adjustment.

From Chamberlain Doors – Lubricate moving parts. Use a small amount of white lithium based lubricant to lube the door’s rollers, bearings and hinges. You may also lubricate the frame of the door opening on the house where the garage door contacts the wood with a regular wax candle. This will help the door slide easier against the house while opening and closing. Once every 3-4 years – Re-lubricate the garage door opener rail. Using a clean rag, wipe away existing lubrication from the center rail and reapply a small layer of lubrication. We recommend using a white lithium based grease for all lubrication purposes.

Some openers are advertised as maintenance free. This usually means the opener motor. Check your manufacturer for your requirements.
Door Opener
Verify the upward travel limit is properly adjusted. Downward travel limit does not need adjusted unless you make other changes to the travel limit of the door.
Check the photoelectric obstruction sensors on the lower sides of the doors. Be sure the eyes are properly aligned. Close the door. As it is traveling down, pass an object through the beam. When it senses the object, the door should automatically reverse direction. If it does not, the sensors need adjusted or replaced. The photo eyes should be installed no more than 6” above the floor.
Openers will have a belt, chain, cable, or screw drive, depending on your model. Refer to the manufacturer’s original operating and maintenance instructions. Belts, chains, and cables may need the tension adjusted. The chain or screw drive may require lubrication and will be indicated in your owner’s manual.
Check the light bulbs in the opener and replace as needed with the proper wattage. Exceeding the recommend wattage will generate excessive heat and could damage your opener.
Blow the dust out of your opener. Depending on how you use your garage, the opener will collect a lot of dust. Use a can of air or an air compressor. Getting around the motor area is the most important.
Some openers offer battery backup so if the power goes out, you can still operate your door. To test the battery backup, unplug the opener from the outlet and then operate the door using the wall or remote control.
High Tension Springs

There are new technologies now that connect to your opener that can alert you via your smartphone if you left your garage door open. You can open and close your door from your phone as well. Nice options if you are in to technology.

As with all products, consult your garage door and opener owner’s manuals for the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance.

Rex’s tip of the day – “Annual preventative maintenance can extend the life of your door and opener and save you money.”

Identifying Roof Damage to Shingles from Storms

May 21, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Home Maintenance • Tags: downspout, flashing, gutter, roof • 0 Comments

It is not uncommon to have severe hail storms in the Denver, Colorado area. Many homeowners wonder if the hail has damaged the composition/asphalt shingles on the roof. How do you determine if you need to call a roofing company or your insurance company to check for roof damage?

SONY DSC

Look in your gutters on the edge of the roof to see how much shingle granules are in the bottom of the gutter. This will give you an indication of how hard the roof was hit. The hail will knock granules loose and the rain washes it into the gutter. Providing you clean your gutters in the spring and fall, large amounts of granules means the hail dislodged them from the shingle surface. Checking the bottom edges of the shingles at the lap you may be able to detect if any damage has occurred.

Look at the metal vents and flashings on the roof. If you see dents in the metal, that may indicate damage. If you have skylights or solar panels, check those for damage. Plumbing vent pipes can also be damaged from the hail.

Concrete tile roofs are not as likely to be damaged from hail unless the hail is extremely large.

After any major storm you should check your roof and exterior for any damage. If your gutters have a lot of tree debris from the hail, you should have them cleaned out as soon as possible so they can drain properly. See my post on Gutters and Downspouts for more information.

Calling a roof professional or your insurance company and requesting an adjuster is the best way to determine if your roof is damaged from the hail.

Roof Maintenance

May 4, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Home Maintenance • Tags: roof • 0 Comments

Have you ever had the roof on your home checked? If you have not, I suggest you do so. Ideally a roof should be checked annually and after every major storm event. Just because you have not seen or had a leak, does not mean there are no problems or potential problems up there.

There are several types of roof covering; shingles, tile, and standing seam metal panel are common. Typically a mixture of asphalt and fiberglass composition shingles are the most common in many midwestern communities. Some are decorative and some are the traditional “3 tab” style. Composition shingles can be damaged by high winds and hail. Growing up in Nebraska, we frequently had hail storms that would damage roofs. Even if you have not had hail or major storm events, like everything else, the shingles age and lose their effectiveness as the sun’s UV deteriorates the shingles. The manufactures may advertise their product as a 20 or 30 year roof shingle. I can tell you that you will be fortunate to get 15 years out of a good shingle roof. Homeowners insurance policies now have specific provisions for roofs so you should check with your agent if you are not aware of those provisions. Otherwise, you could be in for a shock if you ever have a roof claim.

Decided to check this yourself? Good. Here is what you can look for and many of these you can fix yourself. Safety first! When using a ladder, make sure it is in good condition. Extend the ladder so the top is extended three feet above the edge of the roof. The base is secure and the ladder at the proper angle.

Sealants – any exposed faster heads should have a roof sealant covering them. Roof sealants are available at the hardware or home improvement store.
Flashing – typically metal, look to see that they are all secure. Metal flashings occur at the roof to wall joint; sidewall and headwall, drip edge flashing at the roof eave (at the gutter) and possibly on the rake. If you have a fireplace through the roof, metal flashing should be around the base at the roof to wall intersection. If you have an eave that terminates at a sidewall, there should be a kick out or diverter flashing. See photo at the bottom of this article.
Pipe flashing – Plumbing and mechanical vent pipes that are through the roof should have a metal roof jack flashing installed around it. There will be a rubber boot in the middle of the plumbing flashing where the pipe comes through. Check to be sure the rubber is in good condition and secure around the pipe. If it is cracked, the rubber not fully extended up around the pipe, or if it looks like it is not properly sealed around the pipe, have it checked by a roof professional as it may need replaced. See photo at the bottom of this article. The mechanical vents will be for your furnace and hot water heater. These are typically all metal with a storm collar where the vent pipe meets the roof jack. If you have a high efficiency furnace or water heater, the vent pipes may be PVC.
Missing shingles – If there are any obvious signs of missing shingles, you will need to contact a roofing professional and have them replaced. The “3 tab” shingles are notorious for getting blown off.

Tile and metal standing seam roofs require less maintenance but need to be checked periodically. Walking on the tile roofs can crack the tile and the metal roofs can be slippery to walk on so I recommend these be checked by a professional.

Kickout Diverter Flashing

Storm Collar Installation. Metal jack to pipe needs sealed and storm collar lowered to the joint.

Rubber at the pipe needs to be needs pulled up

Rubber at the pipe needs to be pulled up

Photos courtesy of ABCO Construction Services

Rex’s tip of the day – “Safety first when working on a roof.”

Gutters & Downspouts

April 25, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Home Maintenance • Tags: drainage, gutter, roof • 0 Comments

The gutters on the eave of your roof are designed to collect the water from the roof and direct it to a proper location. The downspouts connected to the gutter drain the water away from your home. Have you ever cleaned the gutters out? Many homeowners do not think about that until they have a water issue in their basement or crawlspace. If you have trees around or near your home, you need to check the gutters as they may have an accumulation of leaves and debris. That debris slows the drainage and can clog the gutter and the downspout. Not properly draining water away from your foundation can cause damage.

You can find a gutter scoop at the hardware or home improvement store that makes the cleaning easier. All you need is a ladder, bucket and the gutter scoop to clean them out. Most handyman services can also do it for you. Depending on your home, and your ability to climb a ladder, you can do this yourself. Be safe on your ladder. If you are using a step ladder, NEVER stand on the top step. If you are using an extension ladder, be sure it is at the proper angle, resting solid at the base and the top and extended three feet above the edge of the roof.

You should perform this maintenance annually at a minimum. I do mine in the fall after most of the leaves have fallen and again in the spring to get those last few leaves from the fall. After cleaning, many times I will get the hose and wash the gutter and downspout out. You would be amazed at how much dirt accumulates in the bottom of the gutter.

Now for the downspouts. Be sure they are securely connected to the gutter. I see people’s homes where the downspout have come loose and are not connected so the water never makes it into the downspout. The downspout should be secured to the wall of the house and have an elbow at the bottom. Connected to the bottom elbow should be another length of downspout, the leader. That piece should be 3 to 5 feet long to get the water away from the foundation. Where the downspout ends, there should be a drain block for the water to land on. The drain block helps prevent erosion. See photo below.

Also check where the downspout drains in your yard. Is your yard properly sloped to allow the water to drain away? As homes age, the homeowners and the landscaping can change the elevations and create a back slope towards the foundation. If you have that condition, there is the potential for problems with a heavy rain.

Rex’s Tip of the Day – “Be sure your gutters are securely attached to the eave.”

Gutter & Downspout Connection

Drain Block

Sealants

April 19, 2014 by Rex Splitt • Home Maintenance • Tags: caulking, doors, exterior, windows • 0 Comments

With spring or summer can come the rain showers. Showers means water on your home and water is a serious threat to your home if it is not properly addressed. For this post I will be referring to exterior bulk water and helping control it with caulking (or sealant). Bulk water is not condensation or moisture produced by every day living on the interior. That’s a whole other post.

Most homes are built from wood or wood based products. You may say, I have cement siding, brick, or stucco, or stone (veneer) so I don’t have to worry. Sorry but not true. Besides, what’s behind that veneer? Wood! Wood studs, wood sheathing, etc. You have got to keep water away from that wood.

Let me try and make this simple. The exterior veneer you have on your home is decorative and designed to keep out the large amounts of water. What people do not realize is that moisture (water) will go through all masonry veneers and most veneers can be considered a reservoir cladding. That means it can soak up and hold water.

Enough building science. What homeowners need to do every spring is take a walk around their home and LOOK at the exterior walls. There many locations where caulking is installed on home. Where the veneer meets the windows and doors (sills & jambs), around the pipes and vents, etc. The caulking at these joints can deteriorate and crack. That crack can let water in and over time the caulk will pull away and make a larger crack. That crack(s) will allow water to get behind your veneer. Not a good thing.

If you see cracks in those caulking joints, you need to re-caulk. Depending on the size, sometimes you can caulk over the joint, but that is not the recommended repair for the long term as the new caulking may not adhere. The old caulk should be removed and new installed. Carefully cut and scrap it out and apply new. Be careful not to damage the wood or trim. Yes, you may need to touch up the paint on your siding.

Caulking Cracked

What type of caulking do you need? There are a lot to choose from. First question to ask is will you need to paint over it. If so, you need a paintable caulking. That usually means a latex or acrylic latex (painters caulk). If you do not need to paint over it, or the caulk can be color matched to what you need, you have more choices. Some caulk comes in various colors.

Most people will choose a silicone first. It is a good caulk but…. You need to see if it is compatible and recommended for the surface(s) it will be adhered to. That goes for any caulking. Another choice is polyurethane (always my choice when possible). This stuff sticks to everything, including you! It has great elastomeric properties and is compatible with many surfaces/materials. But some are not compatible. There are silicones and polyurethanes labeled as paintable but I have never tried them to see how well paint adheres.

So now you have the joint(s) clean and have purchased the caulking. Caulking comes in tubes designed to be used in a caulking gun. The mistake people make is that they use too much and then use their finger to spread it out and end up with a big mess and an ugly joint. When you cut the tip off the tube, cut a small amount so the hole is small. That will provide a small bead. You can always make it larger if needed.

Use a nail or wire to puncture the seal in the nozzle. As you squeeze the caulking gun, put the nozzle in the joint and move at a steady pace watching the tip area as the caulking comes out. The nozzle spreads the caulking. Don’t let it build up behind the tip and ooz around the sides. Smooth steady speed is important. You must get caulking on both sides of the joint for proper adhesion without applying too much.

They make caulking tools available at home improvement stores to spread the caulking in the joint. If used properly, they work reasonably well.

Note: if the horizontal joint above your windows and doors does not have caulking in it, DO NOT caulk it closed. It was left open for drainage and designed that way.

Tools needed for this project:

Good Caulking Joint

Utility knife

Putty knife

Caulking gun

Tubes of caulking

Rex’s tip of the day! – Read the label on the caulking tube to ensure the product you have chosen is correct for the application.

Horizontal joints left open above the window and trim

Window and door photos courtesy of ABCO Construction Services

Horizontal joint left open.

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